Moisturizing Hydra/Touch procedure

The main role in this procedure is played by the moisturizing face mask used during the third step, followed by the intensely moisturizing face cream.

In the productsHyaluronic aciddue to its high biocompatibility with human skin, it helps reduce wrinkles caused by premature aging, reduces skin irritations, promotes wound healing and moisturizes it [1];

Squalaneis an occlusive molecule that strengthens the skin's barrier function and helps the skin maintain its own moisture level (hydration) by regulating sebum secretion, and human sebum contains as much as 13% squalene [7].

In vitro experimental studies show thatsqualaneis a very effective reactive oxygen species neutralizing agent. After oxidative stress, such as exposure to sunlight, squalane acts as an effective "trap" of such oxygen and prevents lipid peroxidation on the surface of human skin [8]. Because of this, squalane iseffective in reducing skin irritations, caused by lipid peroxidation.

In an ex vivo study, squalane has been found to increase the permeation of polyphenolic compounds, which are also potent antioxidants, through the skin [9].

Panthenolis an active ingredient that promotes epidermal regeneration and moisturizes the skin, promotes wound healing and is effective in contact and atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, eczema or other skin irritations [4].Panthenolit is well absorbed into the skin and turns into pantothenic acid through oxidation. Pantothenic acid is converted into acetyl coenzyme-A (Acetyl CoA) in epidermal cells, which is involved in many skin biochemical mechanisms and supports the cell cycle [10].

Shea butterorbutter treeits use in cosmetic products began to grow strongly from 2011 and was widely used as an active ingredient in products intended for mature skin. Due to its high content of antioxidants, polyphenols and others, butter tree has UVB absorbing properties. Also, shea butterstimulates collagen production, while inhibiting protease enzymes such as metalloprotease or serine protease [5, 6].

Hydroxyethylureais a derivative of urea that moisturizes the skin without leaving a sticky feeling and increases the penetration of other active substances into the deeper layers of the skin [4].

Allantoinsoothes skin irritations and has skin moisturizing properties, so this ingredient is often used in products for sensitive or damaged skin. In addition, allantoin helps to moderate the skin's reaction to stronger active ingredients necessary to address specific skin problems, making it an effective ingredient in skin care after various chemical peels (peelings) [14, 15].

Aquaxyl™ compleximproves the surface of the skin and enhances the synthesis of essential lipids and proteins involved in the formation of the stratum corneum [16]. This complex not only helps to attract moisture to the deeper layers of the skin, but also helps to retain it by reducing transepidermal water loss.

Rose hip seed oilmoisturizes the skin and contains beneficial fatty acids that help restore the hydrolipidic barrier and even out skin tone [17]. In addition, this oil helps reduce erythema [18].

Betaineis an excellent moisturizer and an ingredient widely used in anti-aging cosmetic products. Betaine helps transport water into the deeper layers of the skin, reduces the depth of wrinkles and helps protect the skin from free radical damage [19].

Oat extracthelps to care for dry, irritated skin. This extract is rich in omega-3 linoleic and omega-6 linolenic acids and fatty acids, which are essential for skin barrier function [20-24]. As a result, this ingredient helps reduce irritated and dry skin.

Rice proteinare classified as enzyme inhibitors that block the activity of metalloproteases (MMPs) and are therefore considered to be an effective antiaging ingredient with antioxidant effects [25]. Metalloproteases are enzymes that can damage collagen fibers and this is one of the essential mechanisms of aging.

[1] GOUSSARD, Valentin et al. Bio-based alternatives to volatile silicones: Relationships between chemical structure, physicochemical properties and functional performances.Advances in Colloid and Interface Science, 2022, 102679.

[2] ZHU, Jieyu, et al. Applications and delivery mechanisms of hyaluronic acid used for topical/transdermal delivery–a review.International journal of pharmaceuticals, 2020, 578: 119127.

[3] PAVLAČKOVÁ, Jana, et al. In vivo efficacy and properties of semisolid formulations containing panthenol.Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2019, 18.1: 346-354.

[4] DRAELOS, Zoe D. The science behind skin care: moisturizers.Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 2018, 17.2: 138-144.

[5] ISRAEL, Malachi Oluwaseyi, et al. Effects of topical and dietary use of shea butter on animals.Am J Life Sci, 2014, 2.5: 303-307.

[6] MARANZ, Steven; WIESMANN, Zeev; GARTY, Nissim. Phenolic constituents of shea (Vitellaria paradoxa) kernels.Journal of agricultural and food chemistry, 2003, 51.21: 6268-6273.

[7] GOUSSARD, Valentin et al. Bio-based alternatives to volatile silicones: Relationships between chemical structure, physicochemical properties and functional performances.Advances in Colloid and Interface Science, 2022, 102679.

[8] KIM, Se-Kwon; KARADENIZ, Fatih. Biological importance and applications of squalene and squalane.Advances in food and nutrition research, 2012, 65: 223-233.

[9] OLIVEIRA, Ana LS, et al. Effect of squalane-based emulsion on polyphenols skin penetration: Ex vivo skin study.Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces, 2022, 218: 112779.

[10] CAMARGO JR, Flávio B., et al. Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations.Journal of cosmetic science, 2011, 62.4: 361.

[11] Online access:https://cosmileeurope.eu/lt/inci/sudedamoji-dalis/15418/squalane/ 

[12] Online access:https://cosmileeurope.eu/lt/inci/sudedamoji-dalis/10243/panthenol/  

[13] Online access:https://cosmileeurope.eu/lt/inci/sudedamoji-dalis/18767/butyrospermum-parkii-butter/ 

[14] BAKIBAEV, AA, et al. Allantoin: synthesis and chemical properties.Herald of Karaganda University. Series: Chemistry, 2020, 1: 7-21.

[15] CROCCO, Elisete Isabel, et al. Topical use of a blend of bleaches associated with moisturizers in immediate post-peeling care for melasma treatment.Surgical & Cosmetic Dermatology, 2020, 12.4: 359-365.

[16] Online access:https://www.seppic.com/en/wesource/aquaxyl.

[17] ILYASOĞLU, Huri. Characterization of rosehip (Rosa canina L.) seed and seed oil.International Journal of Food Properties, 2014, 17.7: 1591-1598.

[18] VALERÓN-ALMAZÁN, Pedro, et al. Evolution of post-surgical scars treated with pure rosehip seed oil.Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications, 2015, 5.02: 161.

[19] Online access:https://cosmetics.specialchem.com/inci-ingredients/betaine.

[20] MICHELLE GARAY, M., et al. Antiinflammatory activities of colloidal oatmeal (Avena sativa) contribute to the effectiveness of oats in the treatment of itch associated with dry, irritated skin.J Drugs Dermatol, 2015, 14.1: 43-48.

[21] ROBARDS K, et al. Oat Oil. In: Moreau RA, Kamal-Eldin A, eds. Gourmet and Health-promoting Specialty Oils. Urbana: AOCS Press. 2009:433-454.

[22] MAN MM, FEINGOLD KR, et al. Optimization of physiological lipid mixtures for barrier repair.J Invest Dermatol. 1996;106:1096-1101.

[23] RHODES LE, STOREYA. Essential fatty acids: Biological functions and potential applications in the skin. In: Loden M, Maibach HI, eds. From Dry Skin and

Moisturizers (2nd Edition). 2006:319-340.

[24] LAJOINIE A, GELAS P, HAFTEK M et al. Epidermal barrier function and Omega-3

fatty acid supplementation. In: Khan W, ed. Omega-3 Fatty Acids. 2014:87-102.

[25] MICHELLE GARAY, M Antiinflammatory activities of colloidal oatmeal (Avena sativa) contribute to the effectiveness of oats in the treatment of itch associated with dry, irritated skin.J Drugs Dermatol, 2015, 14.1: 43-48.