Moisturizing and regenerating face cream, 30 ml

Ceramides make up up to 40% of the human skin barrier, and ex vivo studies have shown that using products with ceramides significantly reduces skin irritation, atopy, psoriasis, and inflammation caused by chemical substances. It has also been found that transepidermal water loss decreased [7]. Therefore, it is an effective ingredient for skin irritation after strong cosmetic procedures.

During the studies where defective keratinization of sebaceous follicles was observed (which leads to clogged pores and formation of closed comedones), it was noted that the combination of vitamin E and C prevents the formation of comedones and deprives Propionibacterium acnes of its growth medium. Additionally, vitamin E protects against peroxidation of sebum lipids, which is caused by bacteria and thus prevents skin inflammation resulting from peroxide irritation [8].

Vitamin E inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase and melanogenesis in melanocytes, making it a powerful antioxidant. This ingredient inhibits lipid peroxidation of melanocyte membranes and increases intracellular glutathione levels [3]. Therefore, vitamin E is suitable for pigmentation issues.

Squalane is an occlusive molecule that strengthens the skin's barrier function and helps the skin maintain its moisture level (hydration) by regulating sebum secretion, and human sebum contains up to 13% squalene [9].

In vitro experimental studies show that squalane is a very effective agent in neutralizing reactive oxygen species. After oxidative stress, such as exposure to sunlight, squalane acts as an effective "trap" for oxygen and prevents lipid peroxidation on the surface of human skin [10]. Therefore, squalane is effective in reducing skin irritation caused by lipid peroxidation.

Ex vivo experiments have shown that squalane increases the permeability of polyphenolic compounds, which are also powerful antioxidants, through the skin [11].

Hyaluronic acid in the product helps reduce wrinkles caused by premature aging, reduces skin irritation, promotes wound healing, and moisturizes the skin due to its high compatibility with human skin [2].

Panthenol is an active ingredient that promotes epidermal regeneration and moisturizes the skin, promotes wound healing, and is effective in cases of contact and atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, eczema, and other skin irritations [4]. Panthenol is well absorbed by the skin and is oxidized to pantothenic acid. Pantothenic acid in epidermal cells is converted to acetyl coenzyme A (acetyl-CoA), which participates in many skin biochemical mechanisms and maintains the cell cycle [12].

The use of shea butter or shea tree in cosmetics products has been growing strongly since 2011 and has been widely used as an active ingredient in products designed for mature skin. Due to the high content of antioxidants, polyphenols, and others, the shea tree is characterized by UVB-absorbing properties. In addition, shea butter promotes collagen production while also inhibiting protease enzymes such as metalloproteinase or serine protease [5, 6].

Hyaluronic acid (INCI: SODIUM HYALURONATE)

Sodium hyaluronate is also recognized as hyaluronic acid and naturally present in the human body. Its role is crucial in different tissues like the skin and connective tissues. Retaining water is one of its key functions, this leads to soft and smooth skin. Aging decreases hyaluronic acid production, leading to less elasticity and more wrinkles. Many face masks and eye creams contain hyaluronic acid as an active ingredient to keep the skin looking smoother for longer. One of the main functions of hyaluronic acid is to bind water in the top layer of skin cells, retaining moisture and reducing wrinkles. [13].

Glycerin (INCI: GLYCERIN)

It has high skin tolerance and effectiveness, making it an excellent choice in cosmetic products. A high-viscosity, odorless liquid that can dissolve in water and other alcohols. Glycerin is essential for maintaining skin hydration as it is a natural part of the hydrolipid mantle of the skin. Thanks to its humectant properties, glycerin has become an incredibly popular ingredient in almost all skin care formulations, drawing moisture to the skin and improving overall hydration. Moreover, it has a high degree of skin tolerance and effectiveness. Shampoos and conditioners also use glycerin to improve hair texture while keeping it moisturized.

Squalane (INCI: SQUALANE)

Squalane, a clear, colorless, and odorless oil, is a great emollient with a high affinity for the skin. It is easily absorbed and can help to improve skin texture and smoothness. Squalane is not only found in olive oil but can also be synthetically produced.

Shea butter (INCI: BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER)

The skin benefits from the valuable ingredients in shea nut extract oil, making it ideal for cosmetics. Shea butter contains allantoin and antioxidant vitamin E apart from unsaturated fatty acids. This active substance is perfect for dry and extremely dry skin care as it can efficiently penetrate the skin and promote the penetration of other substances. Shea butter's allantoin component aids in healing irritated skin and speeding up the process of cell restoration and regeneration, making it a great skin care option [16].

CeraFluid®
(INCI: CERAMIDE NP (3), OLIVE GLYCERIDE, CHOLESTEROL)

Improved texture and elasticity, along with decreased wrinkles in vivo, are benefits of CeraFluid®. It is an exclusive ceramide that has the highest compatibility with skin components. By restoring the protective hydrolipidic barrier, CeraFluid® keeps the human skin hydrated and protected from lipoperoxidation, while enhancing its texture and elasticity.

Tocopheryl
acetate (INCI: TOCOPHERYL ACETATE)

Tocopheryl acetate is part of provitamins. After entering the body, tocopheryl acetate becomes a form of vitamin E. The compound Tocopheryl acetate is a liquid that is oily, odorless, and water insoluble. The provitamin must first undergo conversion into vitamin E within the skin in order to exhibit its antioxidant effects. Vitamin E belongs to the fat-soluble vitamins. It strengthens cell protection and also supports skin regeneration. Its lipophilic properties help safeguard cell membranes and skin cells from free radicals. Vitamin E also helps improve the surface structure and increase the skin's ability to bind moisture. The epidermis houses the essential Vitamin E that functions as the top antioxidant for cell protection. The blocking of aggressive compounds caused by UV radiation in the skin ensures protection against premature skin aging. This method prevents cell membranes, lipoproteins, and fat stores from oxidation [17].

1] GOUSSARD, Valentin et al.
Bio-based alternatives to volatile silicones: Relationships between chemical
structure, physicochemical properties and functional performances. Advances
in Colloid and Interface Science, 2022, 102679.

[2] ZHU,
Jieyu, et al. Applications and delivery mechanisms of hyaluronic acid used for
topical/transdermal delivery–a review. International journal of
pharmaceutics, 2020, 578: 119127.

[3] THIELE, Jens J.; HSIEH, Sherry N.;
EKANAYAKE‐MUDIYANSELAGE, Swarna. Vitamin E: critical review of its current use
in cosmetic and clinical dermatology. Dermatologic surgery, 2005, 31:
805-813.

[4] PAVLAČKOVÁ, Jana, et al. In vivo
efficacy and properties of semisolid formulations containing panthenol. Journal
of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2019, 18.1: 346-354.

[5] ISRAEL, Malachi Oluwaseyi, et al.
Effects of topical and dietary use of shea butter on animals. Am J Life Sci,
2014, 2.5: 303-307.

[6] MARANZ, Steven; WIESMAN, Zeev;
GARTI, Nissim. Phenolic constituents of shea (Vitellaria paradoxa) kernels. Journal
of agricultural and food chemistry, 2003, 51.21: 6268-6273.

[7] SUGIURA, Ayumi, et al.
Reevaluation of the non-lesional dry skin in atopic dermatitis by acute barrier
disruption: an abnormal permeability barrier homeostasis with defective
processing to generate ceramide. Archives of dermatological research,
2014, 306: 427-440.

[8] AYRES JR, S.; MIHAN, R. Acne
vulgaris: therapy directed at pathophysiologic defects. Cutis, 1981,
28.1: 41-42.

[9] GOUSSARD, Valentin et al.
Bio-based alternatives to volatile silicones: Relationships between chemical
structure, physicochemical properties and functional performances. Advances
in Colloid and Interface Science, 2022, 102679.

[10] KIM, Se-Kwon;
KARADENIZ, Fatih. Biological importance and applications of squalene and
squalane. Advances in food and nutrition research, 2012, 65: 223-233.

[11] OLIVEIRA, Ana LS, et al. Effect of squalane-based
emulsion on polyphenols skin penetration: Ex vivo skin study. Colloids and
Surfaces B: Biointerfaces, 2022, 218: 112779.

[12] CAMARGO JR, Flávio B., et al.
Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations. Journal of
cosmetic science, 2011, 62.4: 361.

[13] Online access: https://cosmileeurope.eu/lt/inci/sudedamoji-dalis/14809/sodium-hyaluronate/

[14] Online access: https://cosmileeurope.eu/lt/inci/sudedamoji-dalis/5951/glycerin/

[15] Online access: https://cosmileeurope.eu/lt/inci/sudedamoji-dalis/15418/squalane/

[16] Online access: https://cosmileeurope.eu/lt/inci/sudedamoji-dalis/18767/butyrospermum-parkii-butter/

[17] Online access: https://cosmileeurope.eu/lt/inci/sudedamoji-dalis/16237/tocopheryl-acetate/

[18] Online acess: https://cosmileeurope.eu/lt/inci/sudedamoji-dalis/10243/panthenol/ 

When to use a moisturizing cream, and when to use a nourishing or regenerating one?

For individuals with dry skin, non-regenerating face creams provide more nourishment due to their thicker consistency, high oil and wax content compared to moisturizing creams. It is also advisable to use nourishing creams in the drier winter months or if your skin is damaged, especially after strong cosmetic procedures.

Is it necessary to use a moisturizing face cream?

Yes. Without moisturizer, cold or dry air can more easily dry out your skin, causing it to become cracked, rough, and uncomfortable. The contents of this product typically include humectants for hydration and occlusive substances for forming a protective film on the skin to prevent water loss.

Is the regenerating cream suitable for dry facial skin?

Suitable. This product is enriched with skin-nourishing and moisturizing active substances, which will intensively restore the moisture level and protective barrier of dry skin.

Is the regenerating cream suitable for mature facial skin?

Suitable. As skin ages, ceramides decrease and using products infused with ceramides, vitamin E, and similar components can help combat the effects of aging and photoaging.

Can the regenerating cream be used after cosmetic procedures?

Yes. The composition of the cream is enriched with ingredients that nourish damaged skin, which not only soothe irritations, but will intensively restore the skin after strong hardware procedures, such as radio frequency, HIFU, electroporation or acidic (chemical peeling) procedures. Also, this cream will be like first aid after mesotherapy or microneedling therapy.